The Kerry Highlands of southwest Ireland are wild, filled with surprising twists and hair-raising turns around every tight, one-lane bend in the road...mind the sheep, now...
Anne and I first enjoyed a luxe couple of nights at The Malton Hotel in Killarney before embarking on our Highlands journey. The mussels were just amazing, fresh out of the Atlantic, and the creamy seafood chowders (and the more humble but outstanding fisherman's stews) were my mainstays throughout the trip...along with the Guinness and Jameson...
We drove from Killarney north along Dingle Bay and then hard south thirty minutes to Blackstone's Lodge outside of Glencar for the wee. A fantastic (and affordable at 250 Euro/weekly) cottage right on the pounding River Curragh. This is forty-five minutes from Kerry's south coastline, Ballen Skelligs, and Waterville I.E. at Waterville we met the Brain family, who showed us some nice ties by son Sion along with his brother Gareth.
Everywhere we went, those in the know said "there are no fish there right now." Severe and prolonged cold weather along with continuing drought has left this Off Season way, way off...and to make matters worse it's almost impossible to find accessible trout water without paying a monstrous fee through the local fisheries manager.
Thus Ireland at times seems all about hiring an expensive ghillie, and gearing up with their stuff for trophy fish on the lakes and in the salt. I came to understand that "no fish here" meant "no trophy fish here..."
So, Anne and I embarked on a wonderful journey through mountain passes to Killarney National Park, where we wandered and fished the windy lakes, but with no luck.
We then fished a local river and I managed one VERY wee 'bow on an olive nymph... but the stink was finally off, but just barely!!! I look forward to more time here with knowledgeable locals who can help me crack the code...
What an amazing countryside is Kerry, where my great-great grandparents lived and where I'll return again to enjoy the wonderful craiche (fun, enjoyment) and hospitality offered by this very kind and loving people.
(I think someone has a new facebook profile photo.)Kevin was able to don his T.F.M. t-shirt for a day and submitted this photo for the T.F.M. Spotting Photo Contest.
1 comment:
Incredible post! It's too bad you didn't get into more fish, but then again, it isn't all about the catch is it? Glad you're back home safe and sound Kevin.
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